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If you’ve ever wondered anything even remotely related to “Which is the Best recurve bow money can buy”, you’re exactly where you should be.
I’ve made it my aim to compile this guide encompassing the best recurve bows, so believe me when I say there isn’t going to be a single piece of information that’s related to recurve bows and isn’t discussed here.
The one discrepancy I noticed with other “Best Recurve Bow” articles on the internet is that none of them bothered to explain what “Recurve bows” are in the first place.
Let me tell you a Recurve bow is one of the simplest form of a “bow” that comes to your minds when you think of a recurve bow.
They consist of just the Bow and the string, unlike the modern compound bows which are have complex mechanism with all their cables and pulley.
According to Wikipedia, A recurve bow is “a bow with limbs that curve away from the archer when unstrung”.
Because of the fact that the limbs are pulled backwards towards you and then strung, the recurve bow stores a lot more energy than the general straight-limb bows.
Let’s have a deeper insight into Recurve bows. The simple reason is, until and unless you’ve digested what a Recurve bow is, you won’t be able to understand which bow is the best recurve bow for you.
1. Limbs: The limbs are you can see in the picture, are the parts of the bow consisting of the upper and lower, outer section of the bow. They are what are responsible for stringing the bow together.
2. String: It’s simply the string attached to the limbs which is used to shoot the arrows. In technical terms, we can say that the strings are what are responsible for converting the potential energy (energy due to distance/displacement) into Kinetic energy (energy used during motion.)
3. Sight: Consider these the “scope” of the bow. Just like there are scopes in the sniper rifles for aiding the archer get a better aim.
4. Clicker: This is a device that tells the archers that the arrow has reached optimum draw length, and once reached, the arrow is automatically dropped off.
5. Arrow rest: Just as the name describes it, it’s the place where the arrow rests at the time when the it’s being drawn.
6. Nock: The arrow’s rear end is fitted exactly where the nock is. It helps maintain a good balance as well as aim.
7. Riser: The primary area of the bow which has most of the things discussed above. It’s the center-area where the limbs are fitted.
8. Nocking Point: It’s the place on the string where the arrow’s rear end is attached while it’s being drawn.
So those were some of the primary components which go into the making of a Recurve bow.
Now you know what a recurve bow is, and what it comprises of. But that doesn’t mean you can choose just any recurve bow out of the blue and it serves as the best recurve bow for you right?
Just like an iPhone and a Samsung device, both are great devices in themselves, but that doesn’t mean that both the devices are suitable for you. You might have specific requirements, per say the battery life, internet connectivity, security etc.
Similarly there are certain features you need to look for and then establish a connection between yourself and the bow to get the best possible choice for you.
First of all you need to decide why you need the bow in the first place. It’s the very first question that should hit you when you’re going out there to buy a recurve bow.
There are two primary reasons why you might want to get your hands on Recurve bow:-
With Target practicing, you’re only hitting the soft foam boards or maybe cardboards which isn’t as hard as hunting animals where you’re be hitting bones and flesh, right?
That’s the reason you need to focus on the draw weight of your bow. The draw weight is just the amount of force you’d need to exert on the string to pull it to 28″.
Now it’s basic commonsense that the more the draw-weight, the faster the arrow would travel with more and more speed hence the more power, isn’t that right?
So, what’s the optimal draw-weight you’d need for hunting? Keep it between 30-40pounds. You can hunt the smaller animals like rabbits with a 30lbs bow, but if you’re trying to penetrate the bones or bigger animals like Deers, you’d need the 40lbs bow.
Can’t you just go straight for the 40lbs bow?
Well nope you can’t. Because if you’re an amateur, it might not be easy for you to handle the 40lbs bow, and thats the reason I kept the margin between 30-40 instead of just giving you a straight 40lbs calculation.
So after you’ve decided your purpose, you need to decide the draw-weight of the bow you want. Well not just for the hunting purpose, but even if you’re getting it only for target practice.
Simple because how much draw-weight you can handle depends on what your age is, and how much strength you hold.
So in order to get the best aim, it’s important for you to to get the optimal bow with just the required amount of draw-weight for yourselves.
Well let me make things easy for you, I’m putting up this chart here for you, just find your age, and the draw-weight column on that age is your optimal draw-weight.
Another factor you need to consider while researching your best recurve bow is if you need a Take down bow or not.
Well “Take-down” doesn’t mean “lethal” here. It simply means the limbs of these bows can be separated from the riser.
Now in order to reach a conclusion with this dilemma, you need to know what are the benefits of a Take-down bow and if you need them.
Considering you’ve taken care of the draw-weight, you need to understand that along with the draw-weight, the bow weight matters along with it as well.
Meaning obviously how heavy the bow is will effect the aim, the convenience and basically anything and everything related to the bow, right?
Although not a major decisive factor, it’s still a factor. And the “not so important details” are exactly the difference between a good and a “best” recurve bow, so well yeah it matters.
Now again the best recurve bows weight from 2pounds to 3.5 pounds. So what you should do is, start with a 2lbs bows if you’re just starting up, and once you master them move on to heavier bows like 2.5 and 3lbs.
I’ll keep it plain and simple, the Recurve length should be atleast double of your “Draw-length”.
Choosing the recurve length is easy once you know your draw length, and it’s fairly simple measuring your draw length without the need of any special equipment of even the bow!
Stand on the ground, stretch both your arms in opposite directions as far as possible. Now just get someone to measure the distance between both your middle fingers, and finally divide this number by 0.25
Meaning, the 1/4th of the length between your two middle fingers stretched opposite to each others determines your draw-length.
And once you’ve got your draw-length, just double it up and you’ll get the optimal recurve size for your best recurve bow selection.
As you might still recall from the picture of the recurve bow above, the “nocking” system is what describes the exact location of the arrow’s rear end on the string.
Well I know I’m getting into too many details, but it’s the only way to make sure that you get the “best recurve bow” and nothing else, so bear with me.
There are quite a bit of nocking systems out there in the market, but only two stand out in the best recurve bow’s:
String Loop Nocking Setup:
The string loop is simply when you use a D shaped loop to hold the arrow and release the calipers.
Direct String Nocking Setup:-
It basically is the “simpler” nocking system where you will be attaching your arrow’s release point directly to the string and not to the D shape or any other shape as a matter of fact as with the String loop setup.
Again not a major decisive factor but it counts. You need to decide if you want your bow to be naked, (without the scope, peep sight, stabilizer, arrow quiver, or any such apparatus) or you want those assisting mini-gadgets.
The point being, some bows come pre-drilled for the added apparatus so you can add a scope or things of that sort later, but if you buy a bow that’s not made for adding any extra elements later, you might have a problem.
So before you buy your bow, give it a thought if you really need and will be using those extra apparatus or maybe a naked bow is fine for you, you decide.
I believe this article was about “Best recurve bow” and we haven’t even touched the core-topic yet. Well you can’t blame me if I want to solve all your recurve bow problems at this one single place isn’t that right?
So finally let’s get down to what you came here for- Choosing the best recurve bow.
Note:- The list isn’t prepared on a “ranks” basis. All the bows have their pro’s and con’s, it’s just a list for serial organization. (#10 will blow your mind!).
So those were the bows I personally love and feel are the Top 5 Best Recurve Bows existing on the planet.
Now You can totally get a better bow than all of these if you pay a million bucks, but I’m talking from the perspective of a common, middle-class pocket to which I belong.
I’ve chosen these bows to balance their quality as well as pricing, and as you might have seen each one of these is a masterpiece in itself.
So finally if you ask me which is the “best” bow, I’d just say that depends on what you’re trying to achieve. As you might have noticed, some are light-weight while some not so much, so are take-downs while others not and so on.
So it depends on what you’re trying to do with the bows that will decide which is your best choice, And as promised, I’m not asking you to buy any one of these just because I say they’re great, but because I’ve shown you what they’re capable of and even their cons, so I’m sure you can make a judicious decision for yourselves.
Do let me know which bow you think is the best recurve bow and why in the comment box. Also if you think your bow or any other bow deserves to be in the list, just leave a comment and I’d love to compare it.
The reason the Samick Sage takedown is on the #1 position on this Top best recurve bows list is, it does everything you can expect off a “best’ recurve bow” and it does so without burning a hole in your pocket. (If “pocket” isn’t an issue, you can’t afford to miss #10 on this list!)
Well considering you’re not a millionaire, I must consider the “price” as a factor as well, isn’t that right? And ofcourse there isn’t anything that any other recurve bow can do and the Samick Sage can’t, so yeah I believe that justifies the #1 position.
The first reason I’d go with a Samick any day is simply because they’ve been here long enough. They’re a 1975 company, and if you know the world we live in, I’d say to not only survive but dominate the bow-market in this ultra-competitive world for 40 long years, they must be doing something extremely right!
So let’s have a look at what they’re doing right!
It’s a bow that’s 62″ in length exactly, and has a draw that varies from 30-55lbs. The bow weighs just around 3.4lbs so it comes under the “everyone’s” category, regardless of them being an amateur, a pro, a huntsmen or just someone who likes to target practice.
Let’s begin with the “noise” of a bow. The Samick is well known for it’s peace and quite, it’s almost “silent’ when it’s shot.
Also you don’t get any vibrations when the arrow is released which counts as well giving you a very smooth release.
The length of the bow being 62″ makes it exceptionally accurate and infact it’s better than some of the other “more expensive” bows I own.
Now the draw-weight varies from 40-55lbs, which is clearly linked to the “accuracy” and “momentum” of the arrow. The higher draw-weight you choose, the deadlier the arrow-hit effect is. Well the diversity in the draw-weight makes it available for everyone.
The more “serious” archers who are searching for serious results can opt for the 40+ bows, while it’s not something everyone can comfortably handle so that’s where the lighter versions of the bow come in.
The “limb twisting” is a primary concern for anyone who is accustomed to using bows for a long-enough time and specially at this price-range.
Well that’s one problem you won’t face with the limbs of the Samick Sage, ever! Or atleast that’s my case and the case of almost everyone I know who owns a Samick sage.
The reason the limbs don’t twist is because they’re made of Hard maple, which is than laminated with fiberglass.
Now the maple in itself is extremely durable but to add to it’s durability there’s the lamination as well. So bottomline? You won’t be seeing any limb-twisting, not with these limbs.
Also it’s a take-down bow, so as I pointed out in the earlier sections it’s extremely easy to transport as well as replace and repair the parts.
So just in case you’re one of the rare cases which got a limb-twisting case, or any other case in general, you won’t be replacing your whole bow but just that specific part.
Also, the “screws” and “bolts’ can be operated using your bare hands, that’s something else I love about the Samick sage because now I can assemble or take it apart without using any external tools, that’s just another benefit of a take-down like the Samick.
The “simplicity” is the super-power of the riser of the Samick Sage Takedown bow. There’s no complications, it’s just a polished riser that comes pre-drilled for additional apparatus.
Olive Dymondwood and Hard Maple are used for making the Riser, that’s what gives it the sturdy, solid and durable look.
So bottomline for the riser? It’s simple, it lets you customize itself easily, and it’s durable. I’d say that’s almost everything I look for in a basic riser.
Read More About Recurve Bow Accessories.
The Martin Saber weighs 3.4 lbs that’s exactly the same as the Samick Sage. Even the draw distribution is the same, that’s from the range of 30-50lbs.
The only “physical” difference between the two bows we’ve discussed so far is their length. The Martin Saber is slightly longer than the Samick sage, accounting for 64″ of length.
My first point of thought whenever I’m checking a new bow out lands on the “limbs” of the bow, because at the end of the day they will be responsible for sending my arrows off, right?
Also because the “limbs” cause the most tenacious problem of “limb-twisting” as I already discussed. But just like with the Samick sage, you won’t be getting any limb-twisting problems with the Martin Saber as well.
The Martin Limbs are made up of wood and laminated glass and that’s exactly what’s responsible for it’s durable as well as long-lasting quality.
The first aspect you’re bound to notice when you’re drawing a Martin Saber is it’s extremely steady and smooth draw, at “EVERY” draw weight, regardless of what you’re using, the 40lbs, 50lbs or any other version.
So that takes attention off “handling the bow” and you can focus that attention on to aiming and accuracy.
The Marin Saber is a Take-down bow as well so obviously you can take it apart and re-assemble them anytime you like.
Which actually adds up as a “major factor” in this case considering the exceptional length of the bow, which otherwise would be a mess to travel with. Read More About Take Down Recurve Bow
The riser of the Martin Saber stands out for some very peculiar reasons, which were made possible because the grip was made using thermal V protecting dampening materials, which give it an ultra-comfortable as well as sweat-resistant hold.
Secondly it’s exceptionally quite. The reason being, two sets of Vibration Vortex’s are attached to the riser, which reduces vibrations considerably, so obviously there’s less vibration as well as less sound.
Matarials Used for Riser Construction:
The Marin Saber is known to make use of “Aluminium” in the construction of its Risers. Well it’s different than our general wooden Risers no doubt, but it serves a dual purpose, the Aluminium makes it durable as well as light-weight.
This is the smallest and the lightest bow so far in this list. It’s 60″ long which makes it compact and considerably smaller compared to the Martin Saber (which isn’t a “bad” thing.)
My faviorate part about the Jaguar it comes with the bow stringer! Now this was the first time I ever got a bow stringer with a bow so obviously that made an impact.
The Jaguar Elite has the draw-range from 29-55 lbs as I already mentioned, now combine that with the 7 inch brace-height of the Jaguar, and I’d say you’re getting the perfect recipe for accuracy.
Again it’s quite-enough (talking in regards to “sound”)and you won’t be getting any hand-shock while shooting the bow. Although I’ve to be honest it’s not as quite as the Martin Saber.
The limbs of the Jaguar Elite won’t give you the limb-twisting problem, well simply because I’ve never encountered a Martin having that problem.
Reinforced wood with laminated fiberglass! Yeah that’s what goes into them making of the limbs of the Jaguar Elite, so no doubt limb-twisting is a fairytale for this little friend of ours.
The Riser is made out of Aluminium as well as Magnesium, as soon as you heard Aluminium you probably guessed that’s what accounts for the light-weight of the bow didn’t you? Well you’re right!
As already discussed, the Riser is made out of lightweight aluminium which accounts for a total weight of the bow to just 2.6lbs. Now that makes this one of the faviorate bows for beginners and amateurs.
This obviously is a Take-down bow, although the only problem is the screws can’t be operated with bare hands.
So you’d need the “bow-ranch” in order to attach or detach the limbs from the riser.
The Jaguar Elite comes pre-drilled for additional apparatus that you might need. Also it comes with brass inserts pre-boxed when you buy it.
So bottomline being, it’s a durable bow, that shoots quitely and is light-weight. Now if those are the ingredients you’re looking for, this is what you should be ordering from the menu.
But hey you can replace them easily, right? So I wouldn’t really call them reasons for me not going with the Jaguar Elite.
Take everything we have talked so far, filter out their best qualities and put them in a mixer, the outcome will be the Hoyt GameMaster Recurve II.
So no doubt it deserves to be on this Best Recurve Bow list simply because it has all the good qualities you are looking and expecting for at this price.
It makes use of the Ultra Slim TEC Riser. This not only makes the riser extremely slim, but also helps in reducing vibrations and hand-torque.
Infact this probably is the least reflective bow I’ve seen (which is a good thing), because it reflects least vibrations, least hand-torque and least sound as far as bows at this price-range are concerned.
The limbs are made out of wooden core, so you know they’re durable. As far as the length of the limbs go, I’d say they’re pretty short which is a good thing.
The Hoyt GameMaster II is obviously a take-down bow so you can unscrew almost every major part of it and fit their replacements.
First and foremost I’d like to mention that the grip is detachable! So well yes you can detach the grip and fit new ones if you ever feel the needs of it.
Secondly, the grip has been designed with perfect calculations so that during a draw, the grip doesn’t completely cover your palm at any point.
The bow doesn’t need any additional apparatus to be honest. It’s silent enough, it’s accurate and stable as well. But if you do insist on having third party apparatus, well yes it comes pre-drilled for them.
By default, it can accept:-
When speaking of overall quality, let me start by addressing the “sound” it makes while shooting. Almost none!
It’s one of those “value for money” bows which might not be as cheap as you’d like them, but once you buy them you’re thinking “Damn! I could’ve as well bought two of these” atleast that’s what happened with me.
The Riser has it’s outer layer coated so that means a bad weather isn’t going to effect it.
Also the shelf of the bow is covered with “bear” hair (that’s one of the aspects where it gets it’s name from!) which accounts for the reduced friction and reduced wearing of arrow-rest.
The shelf is a “cut-past-center” shelf. So in simpler words it means you can tune your Grizzly pretty easily and adjust it for different bows.
Materials Used in the Making of the Riser:
Dymondwood is what’s used to make the riser for the Bear Grizzly. Performance-wise what it means is that it not only makes the riser stable, but also it’s sweat-resistant.
The Bear Grizzly boasts reinforced limbs, which for you means that there’s no restriction on the kind of strings you want to use with the bow.
There will be absolutely N-O limb twisting, breaking or bending problems. I checked out other archery forums to confirm that I wasn’t the only lucky guy, well it seems it’s their “track record” and not my luck that their limbs are flawless.
The Bear Grizzly uses the same materials for it’s limbs as the Samick Sage, that’s Maple and black fiberglass, so do I need to spell this out for you? Obviously it’s one of the most durable limbs at this price-range.
The Grip doesn’t have a thermal padding, so it means that it might not be as comfortable as the GameMaster Recurve or the other bows which do have the padding during the cold weather. But the difference is almost negligible.
The handle has a comfortable curve which makes sure that you don’t get any palm blisters on your hand.
When you shoot the bow, the limbs are sturdy enough to not move to any one specific direction, which adds up to your accuracy.
Ofcourse there are no “vibrations” when you shoot, the release is smooth.
The Grizzly doesn’t pose any problems when you’re aiming, which isn’t a “granted gift” with some of the other bows in the industry, so I’d say it’s a merit for it.
This is the only aspect I wasn’t entirely happy with. As soon as I unboxed by Grizzly, I noticed that it does accept an Arrow quiver, but that’s all that there was.
It won’t accept any other apparatus, a stabilizer or sight per say. So being honest I’d say, if you’re a strict “apparatus” guy, than this might not be for you.
But otherwise, it’s a fine piece of innovation and technology.
One other factor worth mentioning here is that it’s NOT a Take-down bow. So you can’t detach or attach it’s riser and limbs.
You can’t manipulate the draw-weight as well, because you can’t attach a different set of limbs to the bow.
Is it for Hunting or Target Practicing?
Well the Bear Grizzly is “primarily” for hunting as you might have guessed by the bow-weight and draw. It’s heavy, period.
Even the lowest draw-weight starts at 45lbs which is enough to bring down a deer!
No doubt that you can “target-practice” with it as well, but it’s just not the best choice for that.
The Hoyt Buffalo is one of the more expensive choices on this list. But any doubts you I had about “overspending” dissolved into oblivion as soon as I opened the package.
The package had the most number of items I’ve ever seen with any bow I’ve purchased at this price range, consisting of:
Although I won’t ask you to buy it just because it got a fancy packaging, so let’s get down to the actual review.
The riser is a cut-past-center design, and as you’ve already seen it helps reduce arm spins greatly. Even the limb pocket designs have been made with great calculations, which helps in absorbing any residue vibration that’s left which the riser hasn’t already absorbed.
The Riser is made out of aluminum! The lightweight prince of bows, so well it’s lightweight.
The limbs are sturdy and durable which goes almost without saying. What’s better is that you can adjust the draw-weight just by screwing or unscrewing the top-most limb bolts a bit, they let you change your draw-weight to as much as 9% of the original weight.
The Limbs are primarily made out of wood and glass, and they’ve even used up Carbon at certain points . The Tips are double layered with materials which are phenolic in nature. In simple language, it means it lets you use fastflight strings with the bow.
The Grip doesn’t have Thermal padding so it might not exactly be “hot” during a winter-hunt, but it’s made out of wood so it stays comfortable at all times even without the padding.
The size is perfect for you doesn’t matter what your age is, and the best part is if for some reasons you didn’t like the grip, you can replace it with any other Grip you like.
The riser’s length is 19″, so it definitely means that there are no vibrations when you shoot the bow. Also as I already said, it’s light-weight, so you can hold it long enough without being weighed down by it.
The limbs too have carbon implanted in the them which makes the shoot a lot more smoother than the other bows in this list.
So bottomline is, you get least possible bow-torque, least vibrations and lightweight overall weight, so as far as aim and accuracy go, I’d say this is just as good as it gets.
Ofcourse it’s a Take-Down recurve, and again you can assemble it with your bare-hands without the need of any extra bolts or screws.
The only thing “limited” about the Hoyt Bufallo recurve bow is that it accepts only the “Arrow quiver” and that too only if it’s a Buffalo model.
The Riser comes with a crowned shelf, so that means you’ll need a bit more additional tuning than you require with the general bows before you can go shooting with this one.
Although the one plus point I’d like to mention for the riser is it’s looks. As soon as I unloaded it from the packet, I knew it was a beauty, and I’m speaking comparatively with all the other bows in this list.
The Riser is made out of Laminated hardwood. So that means regardless of your draw-weight, you won’t hear a crackling or splinter in the riser even at the highest weights.
The limbs have a fixed draw of 29″, but I must say you won’t notice any stacking even at the very end of the draw’s maximum.
The only problem is the coating isn’t as long-lasting as it should be, as after about 2.5-3 years the coating starts to deteriorate.
The Limbs just like the Riser are made out of Laminated hardwood.
The size of the grip is optimal for both small as well as bigger hands, and it’s made entirely of wood!
Thermal Padding: No (doesn’t provide additional “heat” benefits.)
Cushioning on the Grip: No.
As I’ve already pointed out, the riser is made out of Hardwood, which absorbs most of the vibrations produced during the shoot.
There exists a slight problem though,not all the types of arrows are a “perfect” match for the PSE Blackhawk , so you might need to play around a bit with different bows till you find it’s partner.
Also there’s no vibrations so your aim isn’t effected because of that, meaning it’s an accurate bow without doubt.
The PSE Stalker is something I personally would recommend you to go for if you’re a beginner. It’s a great bow to start and learn, and the pricing is just perfect.
The riser has been ergonomically designed, so obviously its suitable for you regardless of you being left or right handed.
Also if you’re of the ‘long practice sessions’ kind, it’s the perfect choice for you.
Con:- The only problem with the riser is that it’s not metallic and hence it can’t really handle weight above 50lbs for a long duration of time, so if you want to keep your bow alive for years to come, never exceed 50lbs of draw weight.
The Riser is made out of Hardwood, although it does help absorb vibrations, it isn’t the best choice for heavier weights above 50lbs.
Let me tell you the limbs are made out of Maple and Macore wood. So that obviously increases the durability and can handle torque and vibrations well so that you don’t feel those evil powers.
27-30″ of draw-length seems to be the best possible choice for the limbs if you need to squeeze out it’s maximum shelf life.
There’s no GRIP! Well this is one of the reasons I was recommending it for you if you’re a beginner. As I’m sure you’ll be focusing more on your aim and accuracy rather than “comfort” in your starting days.
The bow has limited draw-length as I already mentioned, which considerably reduces the “noise” produced during the shooting.
It’s a bow that’s good for you if you’re trying to hit something that’s at a maximum distance of 35yards away. Anything further than that will be harder to hit.
There’s one aspect, the “Draw cycle” which I found was even smoother and better than it’s somewhat more “expensive” competitor, the Martin Saber.
Yes the PSE Stalker is a take-down bow, although you can’t assemble it using your hands and you’d need the Allen key to do so.
The Riser is made out of Hardwood, so well “wood” reduces the vibrations as well as provides durability to the bow.
The Limbs too are made out of wood laminate. So that means almost the entire bow is made out of wood and there’s no metal.
Although the maximum draw-weight you should put on the PSE Razorback shouldn’t exceed 30lbs if you’re looking for the full life-span of the bow.
Wide-Comfortable-Shaped well. Yeah those three words describe the grip as good as it can be described.
Obviously the Grip being wide enough is comfortable in your hands, also it fits right into your hands regardless of your palm size without piercing your palms.
The bow is one of the most light-weight bows you’d ever come across, so it’s easier to carry around. It’s not as silent as the other bows in this best recurve bow’s list, but that’s because it’s not for the purpose of hunting.
While shooting, the grip adjusts perfectly into the palms without causing any palm blisters. The Limbs aren’t capable to shoot the arrow without any arrow-drop beyond 30 yards, so it’s not for long-range shooting either.
Does it Accept Additional Apparatus?
Yes it does! You can install pretty much every basic additional apparatus you’ll ever need, the Stabilizer, arrow-quiver, a sight etc.
I like to call it the most balanced bow at this price-range that exists! As you’ll soon see with the features, it’s a bow that can be used for and by:-
What else could you expect from something that is probably even older than you! Yeah the Martin Hunter is in production since 1962!
Every bit of this Martin Hunter Recurve is carved out of perfection. The Riser is a cut-past-center Riser like some other risers in this list, improving your tuning abilities for the bow.
What makes the riser special is that it’s made out of Bubinga and Shehuda, it’s not used for the construction of any other bow in this best recurve bow list, and what’s more is that a bit of Extra hard Maple is added with the Bubinga as well for extreme sturdiness and durability.
Not just the Riser, the limbs too are no less than perfect. They too are made out of extra hard Maple wood and then are layered with black fiberglass!
So durability is not even a question. The Martin Hunter would outlast your grandchildren (Nope, I’m not exaggerating!)
Apart from the durability, the limb tips are reinforced so in other words there’s no string the bow won’t accept, from the cheapest to the most-expensive strings they all go hand in hand with the Martin Hunter. Even the BCY Flemish strings!
The Martin Hunter isn’t very cheap, so I understand if you expect a comfortable grip for the money you pay, let me tell you the Grip you get with this bow is the best grip I’ve ever come across, (considering even some more-expensive bows!).
There’s no focused pressure, not even at full-draw! And the design of the Grip has been calculated efficiently so as to settle perfectly in your palms.
With the Hunter it doesn’t matter how long or how much you draw, I drew 28″ on my 55lbs Hunter and it was pretty smooth. The arrow just slided back without any slacking or extra pressure.
Another feature worth mentioning here is, this bow requires minimum tuning! I tried adjusting my brace-heights couple times so that I could come up with the ‘most perfect” brace-height for this review, well all I came up with was the fact that doesn’t matter what’s your brace-height, it doesn’t effect the performance of the bow a bit.
The one other thing I was extremely happy about was the “no-arrow-drop” thing. When I shot my first arrow, I shot it from a distance of 58yards away and still the arrow didn’t drop a cm when it landed on the target.
Not just the flight path, the momentum with which it hit the target even from such a distance was a kind of surprise for me. And no I’m not saying this because it’s a review, or else I’d say this about every bow on this list. But nope, the arrow went pretty deep into the target and considering the distance I would say that’s just as good as it gts.
Ofcourse this goes without saying, it’s a work of perfection, the Maple wood and lamination on the Riser and limbs won’t let you even feel that the arrow is off your string. It’s exceptionally silent.
BRAND IMAGE RATING DETAILS Samick 5 Star Rating >>READ FULL REVIEW<< Martin 5 Star Rating >>READ FULL REVIEW<< Martin 5 Star Rating >>READ FULL REVIEW<< Hoyt 5 Star Rating >>READ FULL REVIEW<< Bear 5 Star Rating >>READ FULL REVIEW<< Hoyt 5 Star Rating >>READ FULL REVIEW<< PSE 5 Star Rating >>READ FULL REVIEW<< PSE 5 Star Rating >>READ FULL REVIEW<< PSE 5 Star Rating >>READ FULL REVIEW<< Martin 5 Star Rating >>READ FULL REVIEW<<
Now I understand your dilemma, it’s a buyer’s dilemma and every buyer on this planet has it. Every company out there claims to be the “best”. And they throw confusing numbers and testimonials at you. So whom are you going to trust?
My advice? No one! Yes not even me or this article. I’m a consumer myself, so I understand your position. How do you know I’m not just trying to sell you the bows?
So I won’t ask you to buy the bows from this list, instead I’ll just discuss the pro’s and cons of these bows in the most detailed possible manner with you, and then “YOU” will be the judge and jury of which participant deserves your attention.